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Beauty / Hair Care
By Kaleigh Fasanella, CNN Underscored
Published 8:15 AM EST, Fri December 22, 2023
What’s in this guide
- What’s the difference between thinning hair, shedding and balding?
- What can you do for hair loss prevention?
- What makes hair grow faster?
- Best topical solutions and serums for hair growth
- Best thickening shampoos
- Best hair oils for hair growth
From genetics and hormones to stress and nutrition, there are many factors that affect the hair and can lead to thinning, loss or impeded growth. Much like acne, it’s extremely personal and nuanced, and every person’s experience will look a bit different. We recommend consulting a dermatologist for serious concerns, but there are countless over-the-counter hair care options for those simply looking to speed up growth or boost density.
To find out which ones reign supreme (read: are actually worth your hard-earned money), we tapped several board-certified dermatologists for their favorite picks, including topical solutions, serums and shampoos. But first, they shared their expert insight on the differences between thinning, shedding and balding; what can help make hair grow faster; and what you can do to help stop hair loss in its tracks. (If you want to skip ahead to the product recommendations, click here.)
What’s the difference between thinning hair, shedding and balding?
“While thinning hair can look like hair loss, it is actually a decrease in the diameter of the hair, which creates a thinner appearance,” says Dr. Michele Green, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in New York City. “Thinning occurs due to hair miniaturization, where hair follicles become smaller, producing thinner hairs, and over time, follicles may become less capable of growing new hairs.”
As for shedding, it’s completely normal to lose around 50 to 100 hairs every day, says Dr. Green. However, excessive shedding — also known as telogen effluvium — can occur after stressful events such as giving birth, loss of a loved one or surgery. “As the stressor is removed, the body will adjust and the excessive shedding will cease,” says Green. “Months later, your hair should be able to restore its normal density.”
Then you have balding, which is characterized by severe hair loss from the scalp and a complete halt in new growth. “Some common causes of balding include genetics, medical treatments, medications, certain hairstyles and illnesses,” says Green. “Once a hair follicle has died off, hair cannot be grown from the follicle and the area is permanently bald.” The good news is there are quite a few measures you can take before it gets to that point, as well as different hair restoration procedures available if you’re unable to successfully treat the hair loss.
What can you do for hair loss prevention?
First and foremost: See a board-certified dermatologist to get ahead of it, especially if hair loss runs in your family and you notice thinning occurring in its early stages. This may look like a widening part or thinning at the temples, though some experience shedding all over. “If you are experiencing any form of hair loss, consult with a board-certified dermatologist as soon as possible because the earlier hair loss is detected, the more effective treatments can be in restoring your hair to its natural state,” says Green, who also swears by maintaining a healthy lifestyle. “Eating a well-balanced diet rich in proteins, leafy greens and healthy fats will provide your body with the nutrients necessary for healthy hair.”
Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, is a fan of minoxidil for preventing hair loss and also stresses the importance of being gentle on the hair. “You want to try your hardest to avoid heavy processing of the hair and tight styling,” says Garshick. “It’s always best to minimize tension on the hair, as this can lead to breakage and loss.”
What makes hair grow faster?
Unfortunately, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to speeding up hair growth. Some people may be genetically predisposed to thinning or disorders like alopecia, while others may have underlying medical conditions that can affect the hair’s ability to grow. For this reason, you should always see a board-certified dermatologist if you’re concerned about hair thinning, loss or slowed growth, as they can help you determine the root cause and how to properly treat the issue. With that caveat aside, there are some natural ingredients, medications and other treatment options that may help. “Ingredients that may help to support hair growth include peptides, caffeine, keratin, biotin and various oils such as rosemary and castor,” says Garshick. “These ingredients work to strengthen and support the hair, resist breakage and protect the hair and may also help to boost circulation to stimulate follicles to grow.”
Apart from just rosemary and castor oils, other nutrient-rich natural oils believed to boost scalp health (and potentially hair growth) include coconut oil, argan oil and olive oil, all of which are supremely moisturizing and high in nourishing fatty acids.
Garshick also calls out ketoconazole, an antifungal ingredient found in anti-dandruff shampoos, as well as minoxidil, which can be found in Rogaine and other topical hair growth solutions. “There are also oral medications such as finasteride, minoxidil or spironolactone and in-office procedures such as platelet rich plasma (PRP), which may be performed with or without microneedling,” adds Garshick. “For those with more immune-mediated hair loss like alopecia areata, other treatment options may be available such as an oral Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitor or intralesional steroid injections.”
According to Green, saw palmetto is another potential natural solution, thanks to its anti-androgenic, or testosterone-blocking, properties. “Saw palmetto is thought to inhibit the enzyme 5-alpha reductase from converting testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT),” explains Green. “DHT is an androgen hormone that causes follicle miniaturization, or the shrinking of hair follicles, leading to hair thinning and short hair formation.” Similar to biotin, it can be found in a variety of different hair growth products on the market.
Biotin, by the way, is an oft-cited ingredient that can support nail and hair health, but there’s still a lack of conclusive evidence as to whether or not biotin helps hair loss and/or growth. “Although it is a popular choice for those with hair loss, at this time there are no clinical trials that show the efficacy of biotin supplementation on hair loss, so there is minimal clinical evidence supporting its benefits,” explains Garshick. “A meta-analysis performed in May 2017 showed no scientific evidence to support the use of biotin for hair loss; however, given many people seem to tolerate it and individuals do experience some benefits, it is still being used for this purpose.”
Green addresses those benefits, explaining that, “Biotin is a B vitamin that aids in the creation of red blood cells, and increasing red blood cell counts increases the rate at which oxygen and nutrients are delivered to the hair follicles and scalp. Additionally, biotin is necessary for keratin production, which is a main component of hair composition.”
Now that we’ve covered what ingredients and treatments can aid in hair growth, as well as how to differentiate between the different types of hair loss, we’re sharing some of the best hair growth products currently available, according to derms.
Best topical solutions and serums for hair growth
“While the mechanism of minoxidil is not fully known, it is thought to increase blood flow to the scalp, which can help facilitate hair regrowth,” says Garshick. “Additionally, it is thought to increase the anagen, or ‘growing’ phase of the hair cycle, and hairs also fall out at a slower pace, overall helping to reduce hair loss.” This under-$40 topical solution from Hers not only contains 7% minoxidil (which you can’t find in stores) but biotin, hydrating panthenol (aka vitamin B5) and ketoconazole to keep the scalp healthy and flake-free.
Garshick recommends this highly affordable option from The Ordinary, as it’s packed with peptides, antioxidants, vitamins and humectants, all of which help nourish strands and promote overall scalp and hair health. “This serum also contains castor oil, which may help to promote healthier and stronger hair, as it uses ricinoleic acid, a type of fatty acid, to boost circulation in the scalp,” says Garshick. “Caffeine, also included, has been shown to help with hair growth in laboratory settings but is likely helping by supporting healthy hair through antioxidant benefits.”
“This serum contains natural ingredients that can potentially stimulate hair growth,” says Green of Nutrafol’s vegan hair serum. “It contains ashwagandha exosomes to promote healthy-looking hair, Irish moss peptides to grow thicker hair and pea sprout extract to minimize hair breakage.” Other benefits include it being nongreasy, extremely lightweight and made with natural fragrance.
Green approves of Vegamour’s highly rated hair serum. “Its formulation includes biotin to strengthen hair strands, a blend of mung bean and red clover to nourish the scalp, caffeine to stimulate the scalp and turmeric to create the appearance of denser-looking hair,” says Green.
“This weightless serum contains seven different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to deliver hydration to the scalp, niacinamide to maintain the scalp’s natural moisture barrier and a 5% biomimetic peptide blend to support the growth of thicker, healthier hair,” says Green of Nécessaire’s featherlight scalp elixir. It’s also fragrance-free, gentle on all skin types and won’t leave any sticky residue behind on your scalp and hair.
Recommended by Green, this prescription solution from Musely contains minoxidil along with dutasteride and spironolactone, which are other commonly used medications known to curb hair loss and help with growth. “Dutasteride is a 5-alpha reductase inhibitor that works to decrease DHT levels and is used off-label to treat hair loss, while spironolactone slows the production of androgens or male sex hormones,” explains Green.
“This serum combines rosemary oil with tea tree and peppermint oil, as well as saw palmetto, procapil and caffeine, all of which have been shown to stimulate hair growth,” says Dr. Sejal Shah, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology in New York City. It’s also very lightweight, nongreasy and fast-absorbing, as well as great for all hair types.
Best thickening shampoos
“Using ketoconazole 1%, this shampoo can be used at least two times per week to help address flaking, scaling and itching,” says Garshick. For some, keeping the scalp healthy and balanced can help with hair growth because it creates an optimal environment for new growth to occur. “This offers additional benefits as it may help to address hair loss as well, which is thought to be related to an effect on DHT,” adds Garshick. For best results, she recommends using it at least two to three times per week.
Another recommendation from Garshick, this shampoo is part of a three-step system designed to help with the density of hair. “This shampoo helps to prepare the hair and scalp for a complete hair-thickening treatment,” says Garshick. “It uses different technologies to help thicken the hair, using proteins, amino acids and antioxidants to strengthen the hair.”
“Boosting volume while it effectively eliminates excess oil and buildup, this shampoo is a great option for those with thinning hair,” says Garshick of Virtue’s silicone- and sulfate-free formula. “Containing alpha and gamma keratin proteins, this shampoo helps to strengthen and support the hairs, while rice-based humectants and plant extracts nourish the hair and scalp andprevent irritation.”
A favorite of Green’s, this shampoo is “excellent for revitalizing thinning hair and promoting denser-looking hair.” It features zinc, biotin and other B vitamins to help nourish and strengthen hair. “This shampoo also contains Serenoa serrulate fruit extract, a botanical that decreases DHT levels to promote hair growth,” says Green.
“This shampoo is excellent for anyone experiencing hair thinning,” says Green. “Ginseng stimulates blood flow, allowing for oxygen and nutrients necessary for hair growth to be delivered to the scalp and hair follicles, while biotin supports hair thickness and maltodextrin, a naturally occurring starch, creates a volumized look.”
Best hair oils for hair growth
This rosemary-enriched oil went viral on TikTok for a reason, and not just because it’s less than $10. The scalp-loving formula is soothing and ultra moisturizing, and it has helped some people achieve new and faster growth with consistent use. “The combination of rosemary and mint essential oils boosts circulation, helping to stimulate hair follicles to help with hair growth and thickening,” says Garshick. “There are studies that say rosemary oil can help support hair growth without side effects like scalp itching or irritation found in common treatments like minoxidil.” It’s also spiked with biotin and a slew of nourishing plant-based oils to keep the scalp calm and strands strong.
Editor Favorite
While this fan-favorite oil from Olaplex isn’t specifically made for sparking new growth, it can help to maintain the strands you already have by keeping them healthy and strong. “This hair oil contains grapeseed oil to help boost moisture and nourishment while also containing ingredients to help repair [broken] peptide bonds,” says Garshick. “It also provides UV and heat protection, which can help to improve overall hair health.” It can be used on either damp or dry hair to smooth frizz and flyaways, prevent heat damage and protect against the sun.
“This combines rosemary oil with clover and burdock extracts, which have been shown to encourage hair growth, in a conditioning and hydrating oil formulation,” says Shah of Weleda’s top-rated treatment oil. It’s best used once or twice a week as a nightly treatment to let it properly penetrate the scalp and hair follicles while you snooze.
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Note: The prices above reflect the retailers' listed price at the time of publication.
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